DESTINATION – THE ROAD TO SEWARD PART 1 (Anchorage to Portage)

Seward, AK is about 2 1/2 hrs by RV or car and 4 hrs by train from Anchorage. Whatever transportation you choose, your journey out of Anchorage will include a ride along Turnagain Arm. This beautiful stretch of roadway or track offers wildlife viewing opportunities and majestic scenery. The luxury of driving the road to Seward in an RV is that you can stop or pass many sites along the way.

Just on the outskirts of Anchorage is Potters Marsh http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=viewinglocations.pottermarsh . For you bird watchers out there, this is a must stop as it is habitat for a rich variety of birds, some only found in Alaska. There is ample parking in the lot which can accommodate RVs. Once parked you will find the entrance to the wooden boardwalk which spans 1,550 feet from the parking area through the marsh.

As you continue on your way to Seward, you will enter the 3rd largest state park in the US, Chugach National Park. Shortly thereafter you will pass a weigh station and then you will see a sign for McHugh Creek (MP 110.9). McHugh Creek is a nice stop that offers views of the Turnagain Arm, a beautiful waterfall, a picnic area and several hiking trails. I recommend a quick stop here to take pictures, eat lunch and a short hike. There is a short hike with an excellent vista that begins near the picnic pavilion. Head up this trailhead and you quickly come to a bridge over a waterfall.

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

After crossing the bridge the hike becomes steep, but it a short hike (probably only half a mile or so) up the hill til you notice a path off to the right. I believe there are more than one now, so it’s probably the 2nd or 3rd trail off the beaten path that you want to take. This short path will lead you out to the rocky (but safe) edge where you will find a magnificent view. Snap some photos before you head back down the trail.

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

Depart McHugh creek and continue south on the highway. You will pass many pull offs including beluga point (MP 109.4), bird point (MP 95.3), and many other unmarked stopping areas. As you are heading South, most of the rest areas on the right side will accommodate RVs. Most of the ones on the left, will not. Take your time on this drive. If you see a lot of cars pulled over, someone has probably spotted some wildlife. In these areas you can see beluga whales in Turnagain Arm (especially if there is a run of red salmon in), dall sheep on the rocky cliffs ( even on the road) or near beluga point, eagles, possibly a bear (if you have binoculars) or a bore tide. http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/chugach/14boretidesched.pdf

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

Approximately 30 miles south of Anchorage at approximately MP 90, is the road to turn off to the town of Girdwood. There is a huge gas station at this intersection so it’s hard to miss. If you have time, turn off here to see Anchorage’s ski resort in the town of Girdwood. Drive towards the mountain and then to the left and back to the hotel. There are nice hiking trails there. Girdwood isn’t much of a town, but it has a few things I like. The Double Musky http://www.doublemuskyinn.com  is my favorite restaurant in alaska and is located just off the main road at 3 Crow Creek Rd. If it’s dinner time, stop here! If you get there when it opens you won’t have to wait, but go later and the wait times can be as long as 2 hrs. They do not take reservations. After dinner, take a quick ride up Crow Creek Rd to the campground and back. Here you can possibly see bear and moose.

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

Now head back out to the hwy and head South again. You will begin to pass through an area which has many scrawny, dead trees in a low lying marsh. This is a result to the 1964 earthquake. The land here rose and fell and the salt water then penetrated these trees through their roots and killed them. You can see moose in this area at times.

At MP 79 is the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center http://www.alaskawildlife.org , hereafter referred to as AWCC. AWCC is a non-profit group which takes in and cares for injured and orphaned alaskan wildlife. Here you can most always see Bears, Moose, Elk, Musk Ox, Eagle, and Wood Bison. At times they also have Sitka Black-tailed Deer, Caribou, Linx and other animals. They charge $12 per adult, $9 for seniors, active military and children (4-12) with a limit of $35 per vehicle. There are BOGO coupons offered in the Northern Lights Coupon Book and the Alaska Toursaver.

Just beyond the conservation center is the Whittier/Portage Glacier Access Road. Turn off here and head to the Portage Glacier area (bear right at the split of the road because left goes to the tunnel to Whittier). Spend some time visiting the Begich Boggs Visitor Center http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/chugach/home/?cid=stelprdb5251094  located at the end of Portage Lake. The BB Visitors center is filled with exhibits about glaciers and the chugach national forrest, a movie theater and offers daily, free informative walks and educational programs hosted by park rangers. At one time Portage Glacier was visible from the visitors center, but it since receded and cannot be viewed there.

There are several other things to do in this area. There is a Portage Glacier Cruise http://www.portageglaciercruises.com which charges $34 adult/$17.00 child (there are also discount coupons in the 2 above mentioned coupon books) to ride an hour long cruise aboard the MV Ptarmigan to base of Portage Glacier. In my opinion, you should skip this cruise if you have the time, money and ability to take the Phillips 26 Glacier Cruise out of Whittier or a Kenai Fjords tour out of Seward. Instead, park at the Byron Glacier trail head and get up close and personal with a valley glacier. Or take a walk on the Trail of Blue Ice. I love this trail! It’s and easy trail which walks you past several hanging glaciers, by a stream with red salmon (in season mid July – early Sept), and through some beautiful scenery.

Along the Whittier/Portage Glacier Access Road there are also some campgrounds.  Williwaw campground is a favorite with RVers because there are several pull throughs and many wide, open campsites which will accommodate RVs.  Black Bear campground is a very small campground, probably better suited to tent camping, but it’s personally my choice when I camp in the area.  It is heavily wooded with a small number of primitive campsites.  There is also a private campground called Portage Valley Cabins and RV Park which offers RV spots with hookups and a private dump station.

You can read more about both Portage and Byron glaciers in my prior post:

Sights & Attractions – Glaciers (accessible by land)

Lastly, if you were to veer to the left where this road splits, you will reach the entrance for the tunnel to Whittier. Whittier is the entrance to Prince William Sound. The only way to get there is through this tunnel (whether by car, RV or train). There is a fee and schedule http://www.dot.state.ak.us/creg/whittiertunnel/schedule.shtml  for this tunnel. Some cruises leave out of the Whittier port and really, a cruise tour, ocean cruise or fishing charter is the only reason to go to Whittier. It is only really a sight seeing destination if you are on the water.

Sights & Attractions – Glaciers (accessible by land)

So you want to see glaciers? Well, Alaska is the place to do just that! The state of Alaska is home to over 100,000 glaciers. There are many ways to experience these “rivers of ice” which are slowly carving the Alaska landscape. They can be viewed by air, sea and/or land.

There are 4 glaciers within driving distance of Anchorage which are the most visited and also accessible by land.

#1 Portage Glacier which is 50 miles south of Anchorage. There you will find the Begich,Boggs visitors center http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/chugach/home/?cid=stelprdb5251094 which is open from 9am – 6 pm 7 days a week from late May tip mid Sept. Winter hours vary, so call or check their website for days and times of operation. At the visitors center there is both car and RV parking available at no charge. The visitor center charges $5 per person for entrance to the exhibits and movie. They also accept the federal national parks pass for entry. If you are a senior, you can purchase a national parks pass on-site for $10 and it allows you and 4 guests free entry to the visitor’s center exhibits and also any national park (including Denali). There are restrooms located in the visitors center which can be used at no charge.

Unfortunately, Portage glacier is no longer visible from the road or visitors center. At times, pieces of ice break off the glacier and float to where they can be viewed from the visitor’s center. However, that occurrence is becoming rarer and rarer. Therefore the only way to really visit Portage Glacier is to take a 1 hour cruise which will cost you $34 per adult / $17.00 per child. There are several discounts available from $5 off (through their website) to buy one, get one free (using the northern lights coupon book or other coupons books which you have to purchase).

The Portage Glacier cruise http://www.portageglaciercruises.com/tours.cfm is narrated by a park ranger and departs 5 times a day during the summer months (closed in winter). This cruise is of value to any person with physical limitations because you can comfortably rest while the boat takes you right up to the face of the glacier. To the more mobile visitor, I suggest that you read on…

 

Byron Glacier© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

Byron Glacier
© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

#2 Byron Glacier is a very small valley glacier located in Portage valley very close to Portage Glacier. It is accessible by foot via a trailhead which is located just past the Begich, Boggs visitor center, but before the Portage Glacier Cruise entrance. At the trailhead you will find parking for both cars and RVs. The trail itself is a mostly flat, easy 3/4 mile walk (one way) suitable for all ages. The trail ends at a snowy ice field and there is usually an ice cave present, but it may not be accessible. Remember, glaciers are constantly changing, so visitors can have very different experiences depending on the timing of the visit.

At the Byron glacier, a fairly sure footed visitor of any age can get on to the snow field and say they have walked on a glacier or have a snow ball fight. It makes for a fun picture on a sunny day to be playing in the snow in your shorts and t-shirt 🙂 While it’s a very small glacier (not really impressive), it’s a nice little walk through the natural vegetation of portage valley and along side of the glacial river.

#3 Exit Glacier in Seward is about a 2 – 2 1/2 hour drive from Anchorage. Seward is also accessible by railroad (4 hr ride), but then you’d have to find your own transportation to the glacier. The road to Exit Glacier can be found at mile 3 of the Seward highway. The access road is 8.6 miles and ends at the Exit Glacier Nature Center. Car and RV parking is available at the Exit Glacier Nature Center at no charge.

Exit is another valley glacier and is actually part of the Harding Icefield. Depending on your level of mobility, you can access the glacier and ice field by foot. The trail from the nature center is a one mile loop which brings the visitor to the face of the glacier. While a lot of the trail is an easy stroll and wheelchair accessible, there are sections which can be moderately challenging for persons with limited mobility. The one mile trail does climb some slight elevation and there are parts which involve walking on rocks. Know your limitations if walking is an issue for you.

An agile adventurer could trek beyond the one mile trail. When you arrive at Exit glacier, you can venture onto the ice with moderate effort. There is also a 4 1/2 mile trail that runs along side the glacier’s edge that will bring the hardier hiker up to the Harding Ice Field. This is a very strenuous 6 – 8 hour hike which gains over 4,000 ft in elevation over the course of 4+ miles. Don’t attempt this hike if you are ill prepared. It requires hiking stamina, carrying water, food and supplies (like bug dope, sun screen etc), and proper footwear and clothing. It’s an amazing hike if you come prepared. You are sure to see some Alaskan wildlife along the way and if you are really lucky, a bear or mountain goat.

Matanuska Glacier
© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

Matanuska Glacier
© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

Matanuska Glacier
© Copyright: Liane Minster 2014
All Rights Reserved by the author.

#4 The Matanuska Glacier is another valley glacier which is located about 2 hours Northeast of Anchorage. It is the largest glacier accessible by car in the U.S. From the road you can view a majority of this 27 mile long river of ice. It spans 4 miles at it’s widest point. When I have visitors in town who are mobile enough to walk a mile or so and can handle walking on snow and ice, this is where I take them.

There is no glacier access from the Matanuska Glacier State Recreation area at Mile 101 on the highway. In order to get up close and personal with this glacier, you will have to pay a $20 fee ($15 for seniors and AK residents) to the landowners who have built and maintain a road, parking lot, and pathway to the glacier. At Mile 102 you will find the entrance to the Matanuska Glacier Park (sometimes referred to as the Glacier Park Resort). For glacier access, turn right at sign for the Glacier Park Resort which is just passed MP102.

Drive slowly down the steeply graded dirt and gravel road down into the valley,  over a bridge, and continue until you reach the small parking area parking area and gate located outside at the landowners home (Glacier Park Resort).  Park your vehicle and head inside where you will find a gift shop, rest rooms and the counter to pay the fees.   After you sign a waiver and pay the fee, the gate will be opened for your car to proceed.  Drive a few miles further and you will come to a parking lot (cars and RVs) and the glacial ice will be directly in front of you, and you will also come to realize that you have parked right on the glacial moraine!

After parking, you’ll have to walk a bit. There are cones in place to guide you. You definitely need to wear good shoes and bring a jacket as it’s often windy. To get where you want to go, you may have to cross water (via hand made rock bridge) or walk around an obstacle. The beginning part of the glacier is covered with dirt and rock which allows you to hold your footing. As you proceed further on to the glacier, under foot becomes pure ice. At that point it is nice to have ice grips or cleats to put onto your shoes.

At the Matanuska Glacier you can walk right up and onto the ice. My 65 year old Aunt was able to walk far enough on to the glacier to get a nice picture with the ice spires behind her. My husband and I ventured further. We were able to walk into crevasses and climb a spire or two. Whether you just walk near the edge of the glacier or right up on to it, you will be impressed. You get a real feel for how massive it is and you will feel small in comparison. Your experience will well exceed in value the $20 you spend to get here.

Nova river runners offers guided tours of the Matanuska Glacier. http://www.novalaska.com/rafting/glacier_hikes_treks_and_ice_climbing I would NOT recommend the Glacier Hike ($70 p/p). If you are considering that tour, you are more than capable of walking out to the glacier yourself. The guide did not take it’s group as far on to the glacier as we went the last time I was there. If you are adventurous, I would recommend the Ice Climbing or Adventure Trek. These tours get you out climbing on the ice, you get further on to the glacier and all the necessary equipment is provided.